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Well, it appears I have the same problem as Mike has. I can't post pictures. My latest post uses a LOT of pictures. If a picture is worth a thousand words, I can't write a 5000+ word post with anything but words. No one will read it! At any rate, I do have a workaround that will require you to follow a link to another chat board. I wrote a post about different types of lighting with pictures of the same coin. I hope you enjoy it, and if you can't comment on the other board, feel free to come back over and comment here! Gary Alls good now, and my post is updated.
Over the last few weeks, I haven't had much time to write blogs. This is because I've been working on my photography skills and, in particular, axial photography. I have learned a lot, and now I have several excellent examples of coins photographed using axial photography.
There are some things I don't particularly care to do. When it comes to those things, I usually procrastinate getting them done. Preparing submission forms to send coins and medals to NGC for grading is something I always procrastinate. I just don't like itemizing the submission form, looking up the market value, separating my medals from my coins, modern vs. classic, etc. Then packing them up and running to the post office is such a pain in the neck. Well, today I finally said, "This is the day" and I grabbed the first item to be submitted.
I have finally laid out how this series on photography will be structured. This post will go into the equipment and some of the settings I use. That will be followed by comparative pictures of shutter speeds and lighting sources using the 1937 Spanish peseta from my previous post.
…And as a result, I’m going to shift gears and attack it from a different angle. Preparing these posts for my series on coin photography is one of the biggest challenges to my writing that I have faced. After the last post on the importance of proper white balance, I realized that my writing was bordering on the technical and less on my personal writing style.
…Then lighting, lighting, lighting is critical to photography. I find it ironic that the least expensive piece of my set-up is also the most critical. For example, two desk lamps valued at $10.00 each when I bought them ($25.00 now) have given me some of the most phenomenal results! With photography as it is with numismatics, the sky is the limit on spending. However, there are thrifty ways to take good pictures especially when the least expensive piece of equipment is also the most important! If your lighting is correct, you can get good results from just about any digital camera mounted on a copy stand. Hopefully, this post will help you to take better pictures of your coins!
Within the numismatic community there is a healthy debate about what constitutes a doctored photograph and what is acceptable. How doctoring is defined is especially important when it comes to listing photos. That said, I am a firm believer in putting my best foot forward. That is, making the pictures of my coins look their best within my personally defined parameters.
Recently I bought a new macro lens for my camera. The lens is a Laowa V-DX 60MM F2.8 Macro 2:1. Now I know I already have a macro lens but if I am ever going to take my coin photography on the road, I will need a much more versatile lens.
There are those collectors who will under no circumstances have details graded coins, medals, and tokens in their collections. Then there are collectors like me who will make exceptions for them under certain conditions.